When people talk about wines from Emilia, one name always comes to mind: Lambrusco. Red, sparkling, convivial. But Emilia has another wine soul—less known and therefore even more fascinating: its white wines. And its name is Malvasia di Candia Aromatica.
A wine that most travelers have never heard of—and one that most people from Parma consider their best-kept secret. Fragrant, intensely aromatic, capable of being dry and mineral-driven or soft and sweet, Malvasia dei Colli di Parma is the white wine you never expect to find in a region famous for reds. And that is precisely why it deserves a journey of its own.
“Malvasia dei Colli di Parma is the wine locals drink when nobody is watching. Not out of embarrassment, but out of the selfish pleasure of keeping something beautiful all to themselves.”
1. Greek Origins, an Emilian Heart
The name “Malvasia” comes from Monemvasia, a port town in the Peloponnese where Venetian merchants, in the 13th century, discovered a sweet and fragrant wine that captivated them from the first sip. They brought it to Europe, spread it throughout the Mediterranean, and over time the grape varieties took root in dozens of different regions, each developing unique characteristics. Today, Italy is home to at least fifteen Malvasia varieties, from Sardinia to Friuli.
Parma’s version is Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, a white grape variety grown on the hills of Parma and Piacenza, with some vineyards extending into the Oltrepò Pavese area. The word “Aromatica” is no exaggeration: this grape possesses such an intense natural aromatic profile that it is often considered closer to Muscat varieties than to other Malvasias. Primary aromas of orange blossom, citron, lemon, peach, apricot, acacia, freesia, and lavender are already present in the grape before fermentation even begins.
Historical curiosity: Duchess Marie Louise of Austria, ruler of the Duchy of Parma in the 19th century, was so fond of Malvasia that she kept numerous barrels in her ducal cellars. Even Giuseppe Garibaldi, while passing through Parma, purchased vines to plant on the island of Caprera. A wine capable of winning over both an Austrian duchess and an Italian revolutionary.
2. One Grape, Three Personalities
The Malvasia Colli di Parma DOC (recognized in 1982) comes in three distinct styles, each with its own character and ideal pairing.
Dry Style (Still or Sparkling): Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections, an intense and fresh bouquet, and a palate marked by minerality, freshness, and vibrant acidity. This is the most food-friendly version, perfect with Parma’s cured meats, vegetable appetizers, and delicate pasta dishes. The sparkling style offers a lively character reminiscent of Lambrusco—but interpreted through a white wine lens.
Semi-Sweet Style: Rounder and softer, with a touch of residual sugar that enhances the grape’s natural aromatic qualities. An excellent aperitif wine that also pairs beautifully with fresh cheeses and savory pies typical of Parma’s culinary tradition.
Sweet and Passito Style: Produced from dried grapes, with a deep golden color and concentrated aromas of candied fruit, honey, and dried apricot. Alcohol levels can reach 16%. A meditation wine, ideal with dry pastries, fruit tarts, and—surprisingly—blue cheeses.
The production regulations require a minimum of 85% Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, with the remaining 15% allowed from other authorized white grape varieties. The most suitable growing areas include Traversetolo, Sala Baganza, Felino, Langhirano, Maiatico, and Salsomaggiore—the same hills where Parma Ham is cured. Not by coincidence: the same air that nurtures the hams also nourishes the vineyards.
3. The Territory: Hills That Make the Difference
The Colli di Parma form a hilly belt south of the Via Emilia, ranging between 100 and 400 meters above sea level. It is a landscape of vineyards interwoven with forests, castles, and medieval villages—the same territory that produces Parmigiano Reggiano and hosts wineries crafting Lambrusco Maestri.
The soils are predominantly clay and limestone, offering excellent drainage and a mineral composition that finds its way directly into the wine. Significant temperature differences between day and night, typical of the Apennine foothills, encourage aromatic development while preserving acidity—the secret behind the freshness of Parma’s Malvasia.
Traveler’s tip: The hills around Torrechiara and Sala Baganza, dominated by the magnificent Castle of Torrechiara, are among the most beautiful landscapes in Italy’s Food Valley. Visiting a local winery at sunset, with a chilled glass of Malvasia in hand and golden vineyards stretching before you, is an experience worth traveling for.
4. Food Pairing: Malvasia at the Table
Malvasia dei Colli di Parma was made for Emilian cuisine, and at the table it truly comes into its own.
With Cured Meats: The dry sparkling version is the white-wine alternative to Lambrusco when enjoying a platter of Prosciutto di Parma, Coppa, Salame di Felino, and Culatello. Its aromatic freshness balances the saltiness and richness of the meats.
With Traditional Pasta Dishes: Anolini in broth, erbazzone tortelli, and Parmigiano Reggiano risotto are delicate dishes where a red wine could easily overpower the flavors. Dry Malvasia complements them without dominating.
With Freshwater Fish and Fried Foods: The sparkling version pairs surprisingly well with mixed fried dishes and freshwater fish recipes, still part of the culinary heritage of the Parma lowlands.
With Emilian Street Food: Tigelle with stracchino cheese and gnocco fritto with squacquerone benefit from Malvasia’s refreshing acidity. It cuts through richness as effectively as Lambrusco, but with an entirely different aromatic profile.
Serving temperature: 8–10°C (46–50°F) for dry styles, 6–8°C (43–46°F) for sparkling versions, and 10–12°C (50–54°F) for passito wines. Never serve ice-cold: excessive chilling suppresses the aromas, and the aromas are everything.
“Malvasia dei Colli di Parma is the wine that makes people ask, ‘Wait, this is from Emilia?’ Yes—and that’s exactly why Emilia never stops surprising.”
5. Discovering Malvasia with Food Valley Travel
Malvasia is not a wine you truly understand by reading a technical sheet. It comes alive in the vineyard, standing on the soil of the Parma Hills with a glass in hand. Food Valley Travel incorporates local wine discoveries into its gastronomic experiences because Malvasia belongs to the same ecosystem that produces Parmigiano Reggiano, Parma Ham, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar.
→ Parmigiano-Reggiano, Balsamic & Lambrusco Tour – A journey through three iconic products, including a winery stop. The perfect opportunity to compare Malvasia and Lambrusco within the same territory.
→ Food Valley Gourmet Tour – The Big Fives (Full Immersion Day) – A full day dedicated to the five symbolic products of Italy’s Food Valley. Malvasia accompanies lunch as the understated star of the experience.
→ Almost Local Parma Downtown Foodie Tour – A walking tour through Parma’s historic shops and wine bars, where Malvasia is often the house white—the wine locals order without even looking at the menu.
→ Parmigiano, Prosciutto & Balsamico Tour – Regular, Shared – Three culinary icons in one day, with Malvasia serving as the perfect table companion.
“Bringing home a bottle of Malvasia dei Colli di Parma purchased directly from a winery, perhaps with a handwritten label from the winemaker, is the kind of souvenir that gets opened the very evening you return home while sharing stories of your journey.”
The White Wine Emilia Kept Hidden
Malvasia dei Colli di Parma lacks the international fame of Lambrusco and the global recognition of Parmigiano Reggiano. Yet that very discretion is what makes it special: a true terroir wine, crafted by small producers on beautiful hillsides, with an aromatic profile that surprises almost everyone who tastes it for the first time.
The next time you visit Parma, don’t stop at Lambrusco. Ask for a glass of Malvasia. Dry, sparkling, refreshing. And prepare to rethink everything you thought you knew about Emilia’s white wines.
